08/02/2006
Recap of Greenland Adventure
So I have been on vacation from our expedition to Greenland the last week. I want to be sure to say that many new films and projects have started to come together. A mini-documentary of our Greenland Trip is in the editing room. By next Spring/Summer Ropes Vol. 2 and Rolling Vol. 2 will debut. There is so much I could say about the reverse culture shock of coming home and the new light I see some of my life in, but I think much is mostly useful to me and not so much others. I’m sure this adventure will come out in many ways.
Here is the series of “daily” reports from Sisimiut that I posted on the Qajaq USA forum:
7-2-06
Well our bags are packed and we're ready to go’ we’re down to 10 hours to
Flight time. On the way to town, pre-staging 4am drive time, Dubside and I
dropped by Bowman Bay at Deception Pass we ran into Warren Williamson and
Andrew Elizaga just finishes their day of paddling. They both saw us working
around Bowman Bay all of last summer. It was a nice coincidence seeing them and
the birthplace of our first two productions. We're off tomorrow to start our
next 3 productions and who knows what else. It feels like a real film
Expedition. We both seem to have our focus and enthusiasm at full power. 30
Hours to Sisimiut, it hardly seems real and I still wonder what I forgot, but no
worries we have a pretty high tech Commando Film Crew and I expect Dubside will
break 600 points on the ropes, an historic mark for a Greenlander or Dubside.
I'll post scores and highlights as often as possible.
7-5-06
Well this is it, we made it to Sisimiut and so did all our gear. A great relief
that it all worked out. The weather is picture perfect and tomorrow the
Marathon race ends here and the teams from all over Greenland start arriving.
Today the town seems to be quite peaceful and unaware that the Games are about
to start. Typically Greenland that it is no big deal until it is. I nearly had
to pay the cost of an additional ticket to get all our extra gear on the
Flight from Copenhagen to Sisimiut.
The harbor is busy with comings and goings of fishermen. Whalers, container
Ships and tourists. Sisimiut is much bigger than I expected. The brightly
painted homes and shops are built on every relatively flat spot and many hang
over the steep rocky landscape. We went to the Qajaq Club house and were
surprised how deserted it was yet open for our self-guided tour, so many Qajaqs
and we assume the best of them are in the race some 20K up the coast ready for
the final leg tomorrow. We hope to get a fisherman to take us out to follow the
Racers back to Sisimiut.
Cheers Tom
7-6-06
It's a bit strange going to sleep at 11pm and it looks like 430pm outside. It
gets a little like late afternoon or early evening here at night then it just
skips past "night time", you have to use a watch or some other rhythm of the
town to tell what part of the day it is. As on every US Indian Reservation I've
lived on, the kids run free and with out darkness there's no reason for them to
come inside except food and sleep and they seem to play and roam constantly. We
watched the container ship operation for a while at 8pm, the kids played
throughout the yard weaving their bikes in and out of stacked containers and the
fork lifts doing the stacking, just like the docks in Seattle (maybe not so
much). I went for a 3 mile walk later and never left Sisimiut proper, and
didn’t come close to leaving town, it’s a pretty big and bustling place. Where
the land isn’t used for homes there are usually dog teams kenneled. They are
chained up just out of reach of one another.
The marathon race ends today in the town harbor. Yesterday we heard that
Maligiaq was in the lead at the end of stage two. It started raining sometime
last night and it’s getting heavier at present 9am. Dubside’s getting ready to
practice rolling, this is his favorite type of weather, the fog is starting to
gather, even better, he says. We are a little concerned about the moisture on
cameras, but that won’t stop us or dampen our excitement. The water temp is a
very pleasant surprise at 50’ F. We were thinking it would be 35’. The Seaman’s
Home is everything Turner said it would be. Today should be the last day with
open plans, when the race ends, the other teams will begin to arrive for the
rest of the week until things kick off this weekend.
Cheers Tom
Sisimiut Report
7-7-06 Marathon Banquet
Last night we joined the group that took part in the 3-day marathon race that
was a reenactment of old mail routes and in celebration of Sisimiut’s 250
anniversary. It was about dinner and traditional honoring of all the
participants. The race covered about 80 kilometers that completed at Sisimiut.
About 25-30 started the race include James Song, Tom Milani, Allyson and Freya.
By the final day only 12+/- started and 10 finished. The first 2 days saw very
calm but cold water. The last day the weather changed and was quite rough with
big swells and wind. Freya was happy for the rough waters. Most would stay far
off the rocks to avoid the reflective wave action. This allowed Freya the
advantage over many because she likes the rough action and could cut distance
off her race. Allyson finished 9th on final leg and 10th overall. Freya
finished 6th overall. They were the only women to finish the race and honored
for their skill and fortitude. Maligiaq won the marathon. All that started that the race won the Sisimiut town Pin for their efforts. In Greenland you are acknowledged for participating not only winning. In that we were reminded that being here is the start and finish line. The toasts of “skoll” kept the celebration and awards in perspective.
Dubside was surrounded by the teenagers, checking his hair and beard, and being
reminded by them of when they met him in 2004. They all sat on the floor discussing
different rolls and ropes moves and his constant study of Greenlandic Pronunciations.
We have been warmly welcomed and are sure to get some wonderful
footage of the competitions and the celebrations to come. (for those that may
have cultural concerns) I was assured that it was perfectly OK to film and
photograph all that I wanted to. We sat with a few locals back at the Seamans
Home late last night and showed them some clips from the DVDs we made. They were
very interested to see all the Greenlandic images we were able to include and
laughed loud when they saw Dubside rolling all the rec boats and doubles and
triples. It was a pretty good day.
Now we need to practice and see what’s next….
Wish you were here Cheers Tom
7-8-06
Greetings from Sisimiut
The first ferry carrying teams from the south to Sisimiut arrives late today.
The energy level and preparations are starting to escalate. It seemed a bit
casual for the first couple of days, not very many coming to the clubhouse and
not much “Games” activity at all. Most of the foreign competitors have arrived
(12+/-) and are for the most part living in the school classrooms. Yesterday
the kids found Dubside at the Clubhouse and they played on the ropes for a
couple hours. The rope is in the clubhouse (a deep blue with white trim 20’x
20’ gabled building on the inside harbor), It is strung across the main room
with about 18” of clearance for high ropes. There is quite a shortage of good
places to do ropes. They have a beach about a mile out of town that will serve
as the games center (we think) that has 4 low ropes set and 2 high ropes. We
think the rolling is to happen in town, the kids and women at the clubhouse and
the men at another harbor area across town a mile. The “structure” of the games is truly more like a spontaneous annual family picnic. Not that I doubt that all preparations are in hand, I’m just not sure anyone knows how it will all be done, just that it will be done. Last night at about midnight a couple older men and kids were making the pvc 3 ring floating targets for the harpoon throw. We stood around watching a talking, another fellow came in with some fresh sealskin that he was cutting down for new deck lines. Others were stitching new canvas on their frames and repainting others. The next few
days are sure to intensify the preparations.
Nine of us from USA, Britain and Spain, went to dinner at the “Chinese”
restaurant. Yeah, Chinese, with Greenlandic meets’ Muskox, Seal, Reindeer,
Whale (dolphin), Crab, Cod, Shrimp and Lamb. Most had either a hot spicy sauce
or a honey sweet sauce. All were good to interesting, the raw whale and
scallops came with a fire hot green sauce so a couple glasses of Toborg were
required. Dubside ate more meat last night than in the last 10 years. He was very
fond of the seal meat of course. It was a great group of people with very
differing backgrounds and one common love, all here for a first hand and very
personal experience.
Yesterday my main email account went missing in action (thomas.sharp@att.net) so
if you want to get in touch please use (tom@dubside.net). I will continue to
post Commando Communiqués there on our web page. Tom Milani is doing his blog
also, so news should be coming through when we can get time.
Already I can say that all of you that have said you want to come here need to
get serious about it. Next year is 12 months off and plenty of time to plan for
an experience you will never forget or regret.
I have to get into the water today and practice; it may be my only chance before
the Games begin. Cheers Tom
7-10-06
GREETINGS FROM SISIMIUT
Well another day in this icy paradise. Actually half the days have been more
Pacific NW Spring days. Today started with a chilly fog mist that drove me to
the long johns. We practiced ropes inside the clubhouse that was full of
people often, the cheers and laughter were all well earned, I am proud to say I
earned my fair share, of both. Dubside helped many Greenland kids and they
showed many skills and jokester ‘ improvisations. One 8-10 year old boy is
always jumping in with some new set up that involves holding the rope in his
mouth and some impossible hand/body position. He gets a scowl and that look of
determination, then gives a semi fake go of it and slides off laughing like he’s
fooled everyone again. The kids and Dubside are playing very well together, no
surprise if you know Dubside. The boys were taking turns video taping each
other. It may turn into a cool video if they can wander around the games and
give us a kid’s view of the games.
I got into Freya’s Carbon Fiber “Sexy Hexy” this afternoon as the tide refilled
the bay. There were 20+ folks on the Clubhouse deck so I immediately paddle
over near the dog kennel islands in the center of the bay for some ”private
time”. I just don’t want to have a wet exit to live down. That kayak is a
really good fit and rolls very easily. I pretty much max it’s freeboard out at
190#’s. I may not be officially legal as I nearly submerge the back of the
cockpit, but it makes for a nice layback. I hit most of the rolls that I have
with little trouble. The cold water wasn’t too uncomfortable or shocking and
staying warm didn’t take much extra clothes. I have never rolled with gloves
before, but between the new kayak, the cold water and my anxiety over the ”wet
exit” I never thought much about the gloves. Dubside is rolling with great
confidence. He’s getting ready to show them the air skull and a few other tricky
ones he’s made up. The ferry comes in at 9:00 am this morning and the Ceremony opening the games follows shortly after. Around noon the Short races start and we’re off and running for 7 days.
A bit of bad news must be shared here now. Maligiaq was in a powerboat accident
yesterday and was injured and chilled enough to spend the last 24 hours in the
hospital. He apparently has no broken bones or serious injury, but it is
unlikely that he will compete this year. It’s a great loss to the games but a
very fortunate close call as well. I don’t think even a Greenlander can survive
more that 30-60 minutes in these waters. That is why they roll so well and in
so many variations. The wet exit is not an option for a seal hunter. It is
possible he may mend enough before the games end to do some of the team events,
but rolling and ropes are Tuesday and Wednesday and they are very strenuous
events. It is disappointing not to see Dubside and Maligiaq go head to head but
also so good that he will be OK. This is again as much celebration as competition so we all get to appreciate that things change and still we celebrate.
Now for some better news. They have added some higher point values on several
ropes moves that should make it a bit easier to get the qualifying score of 30
points for lots of ropes beginners. For me it makes 50 points a must and I have
visions of 75 pts dancing in my head. We’ll see how far adrenalin and my
practice can go. I’m pleased to make 31 pts and one scoring roll. So it’s hard
to imagine the smile leaving my face too easily.
The only news I have seen in seven days is that Federer beat Nadal in 4 sets at
Wimbledon and Germany won the World Cup. Not knowing what our government or the
local excitement of the week is, has not reduced the fun and games one bit or is
it bite. Maybe I could go to the Dub-side and use my TV for a coffee table.
We’ll see about that. From what I can see the next seven days will seem filled
with non-stop action and lots of great food. Wish you were here……….Cheers Tom
7-12-06
Sisimiut Today
Yesterday was another day of great competition and valiant efforts. The day
started bright and sunny. As we arrived at the beach competition area (about 1
½ miles out of town on the way to the airport) it shortly became a very breezy
day. The small bay at the beach held the strong wind out for about an hour.
Then it began to swing from a Northern to Northwestern wind, from the outer edge
of the bay to straight at the beach. By the time the rolling competition
started the wind was at 15knots and rising with gusts @ 5-10k. By the time
Dubside rolled the wind was spraying water off the waves, for Tom, James and
Alison even more so at 20+ knots. You could see the wind really helping and
stopping a good roll attempt. Even Dubside missed a couple rolls and everyone
else was caught off balance on rolls they’d hit consistently in practice. We
just don’t get enough high wind practice. I was “scheduled” the night before to
be 1st to roll at 9:30 and got to the beach early to be ready. Another person went first and I “assumed” I was next and got suited up and on the water. Then confusion set in while I practiced a couple of times and tried not to capsize unintentionally. Then Freya started getting anxious that our group was taking too long and she needed her kayak soon. So I paddled back in to give it to her. I really didn’t notice the cold yet and wanted to jump
back into video taping while I waited for the schedule to sort out. Then I was told I
would go last. I sat down to get tape of our crew and things were “rolling
good”. About the middle of Dubside’s go-round I noticed my wet feet were numb.
By the time the list was winding down I had to choose between severely ugly
conditions and mild hypothermia and going up beach to shoot the kids on the
ropes. So I gave into the logic, I knew I was prepared and practiced at the competition, in the starting blocks and then the penalty box for being too eager to get it done. I opted for the potential of warm feet sooner than later. There was also another new rule that says you must make 30 points to be scored in the competition. I have about 15-20 points on flat water and I am really here to film the games, competing was really a bonus. Dubside did get some film of me in the starting gate and rolling. I was so anxious I might have pulled out on my own if conditions were better. So I felt good about having committed to the rolling and bummed that I got so cold for no good reason, but glad that I chose to get the kids filmed instead of a rather weak effort to
“compete” so I could say that I did. For as far as we have come to be here it is
not hard to see that I am here to capture video and then compete. The latter
cannot stop the former from working out for us and it would have yesterday.
James and Tom didn’t quite make the 30 pt mark but if winds had been 10k they
likely would have. Alison scored about 175 pts. good for 2nd place
international, Freya was at about 240, 1st place international (no headstands
but front page Newspaper foto). Dubside out scored all competitors at 350+ pts.
He missed one brick roll and can’t do the walrus pull in the Feathercraft. You
cannot change boats or even pop a spray skirt in competition. He also felt some
of the judging was a bit forgiving, ie his Straight Jacket was not hands in the
armpits upon finishing.
It was another spectacular day that you should have been here for (next year is
not so far off though!!!!) The NYC of Greenland is Nook and like the Yankees,
they dominate by size, funding and vocal pride. They have a team song based on
the chorus of “She’ll be comin’ around the Mountain When She Comes”. It is
quite charming, at first and even for a while, now that I have heard it a
hundred times and can’t delete it from my hard drive, I can see why the other
teams don’t always join in.
I hope you are all getting envious of your homees here and get to your own
planning for next year!!!!
Cheers Tom
7-14-06
Sisimiut Games Winding Down
While riding with our friend Hans Hanson last night he mentioned that they have
a Kivitoq here in Sisimiut. That he could show us the cave he once lived in. I
was in the front seat Dubside in back with the mini-cam rolling. I looked back
and asked him, rhetorically, if he was interested in seeing the cave. He was
ready to explode with anticipation, yes came over the giggle behind me. Hans
also is in charge of word processing all the “schedules” and scores. He took us
to his harbor front office to take a “very” sneak peak at the Ropes scores.
Hans is the proud Director of a stevedoring company and a four ship fishing
fleet. Ropes ran on Wednesday originally and continued until midnight until
stopping with all but the “international” competitors complete. Kampe, the
self-appointed head judge said we would go on Friday morning when there was some
extra time. Well one thing that is unavoidable here is change and when things change there is every chance that it will not be the last change. Yesterday was the proof of that concept.
During the mornings team rolling events I climbed a small butte 6-700 ft above the competition bay to get the economy helicopter fly over sequences and a nice view. Then I spent a couple hours traversing the basin to a spectacular alpine waterfall site. By
the time I was back down all I wanted was a nap and lunch. The harpoon throwing
was either done or hadn’t started so I hopped the bus to town. Then a friend
got on and told me the internationals were going to finish the ropes now,YIKES.
Dubside had gone back to our room in town to change his wet clothes and rest for
Friday. So I hurried to town to let him know, he was gone so I changed shoes and
grabbed some food, jumped in a $20 taxi ride back to the beach. I got to the
ropes 10 minutes before Dubside began. It was incredible timing and luck. But
things have a way of working out.
We were riding with Hans while the Harpoon throwing continued at the beach
(10:30pm), he took us to his office to check ropes results and we got a 1 ½ hour
slide show of his businesses and a hunting trip for Musk Ox. Apparently they are easy to kill if you find them. They travel in groups and when scared the big males stand in a circle to defend the herd, and they are nearly blind. Like many animals in the region, their genetic codes did not allow for rifles. Our visit with Hans finished with a gift of dried musk ox that even Dubside liked very much. This was what the young Maligiaq was looking for in Safeway some 6 years ago I think. We got home around 12:30 and Dubside stayed up trying to figure out if the judges were correct in their scoring his
ropes. This morning he went through the video I shot and added it up. He could
only question about 8 points.
Alison is the first international woman to make a qualifying score of 42 points,
yeah Alison. I am the second international man to score a qualifying score of
56 points. I missed a couple from too much hiking earlier and Kampe made me set
up incorrectly or Dubside doesn’t know what he’s talking about. I asked other
judges about a couple moves and they thought Kampe was wrong. But they may have
wanted a reason to say Kampe was wrong. It really doesn’t matter in the least
to me because I am so, so happy just to be here and make 30 pts. But again we
see that this is not done by Olympic standards. The conditions are in flux; the
rules and playing fields are as well. So if you’re a stickler for consistency
and schedules, then just come here to watch and have fun. If you can deal with
missing a competition you may have trained for 100’s or like Dubside 1000’s of
hours, then you will certainly have an experience to last a life time, or at
least until next year.
There is so much to say and little time to do for now.
Wish you were here Cheers Tom
PS Dubside set the new record on Rope Gymnastics 624 points, he is the man isn’t
he. It is until next year that he and Maligiaq can test each other, so get your
house and reservations in order. Rumor has it that Greenland Air will fly
direct from Baltimore.
7-16-06
Sisimiut update:
It seems almost like a dream at times here, maybe from lack of night and sleep.
But I think mostly because at every turn and each new day someone is giving us a
new and increasingly intimate glances into their lives and home here in
Sisimiut. Yesterday our friend Hans took us on a short hike to the Kivitoq
cave. Kivitoq is broken down: kivi – to see, toq – man that …. Kivitoq – A
man that is seeing. To see is not just the physical images that are there, but
also a deeper than normal vision of humanity. One that is not a part of the
community but knows the most wise and knowledgeable aspects of a community and
can demonstrate his prowess with ease. A Kivitoq can fly by flapping his little
fingers like a birds wings. Some think that Dubside is Kivitoq and they have
embraced us in mass like I have never seen.
We had a home cooked meal of Whale Stew and a huge platter of whale meat and
whale skin with about 2 inches of blubber on it. We were shown how to dip it
fondue style in spicy mustard after slicing it into thin pieces. I told Hans
after “bravely and without noticeable hesitation” that the skin/blubber tasted
like candy. He translated to his 3 kids and they all had a good laugh with me.
It was a fabulous start to the evening filled with a 3 hour Medals Program.
Every international visitor won medals and I won a Gold for my Ropes
performance. I was the only grey beard so the competition was with myself and
that was plenty. I sat in the “ media” prime front row filming the constant
changes and movement in the gymnasium. Kids constantly coming and going and
playing all over the hall. There were about 100 medals this one night and more
tonight with the closing ceremony. We will try to get 2-3 of the best teenage
ropes boys today with Maligiaq wired for sound to make commentary
voice over.
Maligiaq is looking better every day and spending more and more time around the
games. He must be so disappointed with his situation, I think some hope that
this will help him to work harder and be a little more careful in the future,
but things will change and be what they will be. We have only 3 days left and
don’t want to miss the glow of Sisimiut by trying to do tooo much and also we
must stay a bit focused so that we can “see” the opportunities that are presented and
not miss the seals nose at the breathing hole, so to speak.
Cheers for now Tom
PS next year the games are farther North where there may be some thinning
ICEBERGS whoo-hoo T
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07/07/2006
Sisimiut Update
Sisimiut Report
7-7-06 Marathon Banquet
Last night we joined the group that took part in the 3 day marathon race that was a reinactment of old mail routes and in celebration of Sisimiut’s 250 anniversary. It was about dinner and traditional honoring of all the participants. The race covered about 80 kilometers that completed at Sisimiut. About 25-30 started the race include James Song, Tom Milani, Allyson and Freya. By the final day only 12+/- started and 10 finished. The first 2 days saw very calm but cold water. The last day the weather changed and was quite rough with big swells and wind. Freya was happy for the rough waters. Most would stay far off the rocks to avoid the reflective wave action. This allowed Freya the advantage over many because she likes the rough action and could cut distance off her race. Allyson finished 9th on final leg and 10th overall. Freya finished 6th overall. They were the only women to finish the race and honored for their skill and fortitude. Maligiaq won the marathon. All that started that the race won the Sisimiut town Pin for their efforts. In Greenland you are acknowledged for participating not only winning. In that we were reminded that being here is the start and finish line. The toasts of “skoll” kept the celebration and awards in perspective.
Dubside was surrounded by the teenagers, checking his hair and beard, and being reminded him of when they met him in 2004. They sat on the floor discussing different rolls and ropes moves and his constant study of Greenlandic pronunciations. We have warmly welcomed and are sure to get some wonderful footage of the competitions and the celebrations to come. (for those that may have cultural concerns) I was assured that it was perfectly OK to film and photograph all that I wanted to. We sat with a few locals back at the Seamans Home late last night and showed the some clips in the DVDs we made. They were very interested to see all the Greenlandic images we were able to include and laughed loud when they saw Dubside rolling all the rec boats and doubles and triples. It was a pretty good day.
Now we need to practice and see what’s next….
Wish you were here Cheers Tom
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07/05/2006
30 hours to go - Landing in Sisimiut
7-2-06
Well our bags are packed and we're ready to go' We're down to 10 hours to flight time. On the way to town , pre-staging 4am drive time, Dubside and I dropped by Bowman Bay at Deception Pass we ran into Warren Williamson and Andrew Elizaga just finishing their day of paddling. They both saw us working around Bowman Bay all of last summer. It was a nice coincidence seeing them and the birth place of our first two productions. We're off tomorrow to start our next 3 productions and who knows what else. It feels like a real film expedition. We both seem to have our focus and enthusiasm at full power. 30 hours to Sisimiut, it hardly seems real and I still wonder what I forgot, but no worries we have a pretty high tech Commando Film Crew and I expect Dubside will break 600 points on the ropes, an historic mark for a Greenlander or Dubside. I'll post scores and highlights as often as possible.
7-5-06
Well this is it, we made it to Sisimiut and so did all our gear. A great relief that it all worked out. The weather is picture perfect and tomorrow the marathon race ends here and the teams from all over Greenland start arriving. Today the town seems to be quite peaceful and unaware that the Games are about to start. Typically Greenland that it is no big deal until it is. I nearly had to pay the cost of an additional ticket to get all our extra gear on the the flight from Copenhagen to Sisimiut.
The harbor is busy with comings and goings of fishermen. whalers, container ships and tourists. Sisimiut is much bigger than I expected. The brightly painted homes and shops are built on every relatively flat spot and many hang over the steep rocky landscape. We went to the Qajaq Club house and were surprised how deserted it was yet open for our self guided tour, so many Qajaqs and we assume the best of them are in the race some 20K up the coast ready for the final leg tomorrow. We hope to get a fisherman to take us out to follow the racers back to Sisimiut.
Cheers Tom
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06/13/2006
3 Weeks To Greenland
We are editing, burning and practicing hard for Greenland Championships. I got 45 points on the Rope Gymnastics yesterday, whoo-hoo! I'll try to post some semi-regular communique while in Greenland. Cheers Tom |
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